The American Tobacco Campus: Then & Now
Durham's industrial past meets its dynamic present at American Tobacco Campus, where century-old brick buildings buzz with new life.
Born and raised in Durham, I've witnessed the American Tobacco Campus reimagined from an historic industrial site to one of the city's most vibrant gathering places – and the transformation continues to amaze me.
One of the things I love most about Durham is the blend of old and new. Durham honors its past while writing its future. Nowhere is this more evident than at the American Tobacco Campus, where history and innovation don't just coexist – they thrive together, creating something entirely new.
Growing Up in the ATC
Growing up in downtown Durham in the early 2000s, many of the iconic red brick warehouse buildings at the American Tobacco Campus sat vacant, and the main reason to venture to the ATC was for a Durham Bulls game or a slice of pizza from Mellow Mushroom (which, by the way, is still a popular choice). Back then, it was hard to imagine it as the destination it is today, with places to eat, work, live and socialize.
Between occasional baseball games and calzones, it wasn’t until around 2013, when my dad moved into a refurbished tobacco mill apartment on Blackwell Street, that American Tobacco truly landed on my radar.
Since then, I’ve paid close attention to these industrial buildings coming back to life, and I’ve loved watching the American Tobacco Campus evolve firsthand. It feels like seeing the city itself stretch and awaken, blending history and modern energy in a way that continues to surprise me.
A Look Into the Past
When most people think of Durham, this utilitarian architecture might come to mind. At its peak, American Tobacco controlled nearly 90% of the U.S. tobacco market, fueling Durham’s remarkable growth in the 19th and 20th centuries. Many of the original structures remain today; industrial castles providing a tangible link between Durham’s past and present.
In the early 2000s, the American Tobacco Campus underwent a major revitalization, transforming the once-underutilized warehouses into a vibrant, mixed-use destination through a public-private partnership. Over the last twenty years, the project played a pivotal role in reshaping downtown, bringing new life, foot traffic and economic energy to this iconic part of Durham.
One of the most significant developments during this period was the opening of the Durham Bulls Athletic Park (DBAP) in 1996, followed by the addition of the Durham Performing Arts Center (DPAC) in 2008, both of which quickly became cultural anchors. Together, they helped solidify the area as a hub for arts, entertainment and community gatherings, marking a turning point that reintroduced the American Tobacco Campus as a place where Durham could come together and celebrate the arts and professional sports.
The Campus Today
And it did not stop there. Over the past four decades, the American Tobacco Campus has continued to evolve into a lively hub that gathers downtown office workers and schoolchildren for lunch on the lawn, theater patrons for a pre- or post-show cocktail, shoppers, diners, yogis and more. Sometimes, when I walk through this one-million-square-foot campus across 16 acres, I rub my eyes in disbelief, as I can hardly believe this is not-so-little ol’ Durham anymore. It’s now an extremely impressive place to bring out of town guests, with never-ending dining options to choose from, incredibly unique retail spots, intentional co-working spaces and a rotating calendar of year-round events that many visitors (and perhaps even Durham residents) have yet to fully explore.
A Walk Through the ATC
A walk through the ATC is the perfect starting place to discover some of the best amenities Durham has to offer. My favorite way to explore the campus is on foot, following the meandering pathways and man-made river leading to shops, eateries and hidden Durham gems.
Events & Entertainment
So, let’s do just that and take a walk through the ATC. Our plan? If it’s springtime, we’ll grab tickets for a Durham Bulls game. Around the holidays, we’ll enjoy the FestiBull of Lights and festive decorations around the campus. And in the new year during the Broadway season at DPAC, we’ll catch a touring band or Broadway production of “Wicked” or “Harry Potter and the Cursed Child,” leaving ourselves a few hours to wander the beautiful sights beforehand.
For today’s purposes, we’ll close our eyes and find our starting point. We’re standing beneath the illuminated “Old Bull” sign that marks the entrance to the ATC at the corner of Blackwell and Pettigrew streets. To our left stands the Durham Performing Arts Center and straight ahead lies the Durham Bulls Athletic Park. Between them, a bold geometric crosswalk mural by artist Mary Carter Taub draws the eye forward, setting the tone for a lovely walk ahead.
Before we begin, we might decide we need a warm beverage in hand. If so, we can pop in to Press and grab a specialty latte or artisanal crepe. Easy fix!
Pro tip: On the weekend, expect a wait. Press is a popular spot. While we wait for a table, we can check out the Parker Paper Company, an adorable stationery shop right next door.
If we're ready to continue our walk, skip the coffee and crepe and go straight to lunch, we’ll grab a Bird Dog from QueenBurger, followed by a delectable milkshake from the Milkshake Factory.
Next, we’ll enjoy a midday class at Yoga Off East, where sun streams through the huge windows that offer a view of the Lucky Strike Tower, live music concerts and pop-up markets. As we lie in savasana, we can gaze up at the exposed wide-plank wooden ceiling built over a century ago.
Pro tip: Right outside the yoga studio, you’ll find an excellent, beautifully maintained public bathroom.
After class, we’ll head downstairs to Parker & Otis for an afternoon hot latte. P&O is an everything-you-could-ever-want-or-need shop owned by Jennings Brody – a true Durhamite through and through. It’s known for its coffee and sandwiches as much as it is for its toys and games, locally made pantry items, barwares, cookbooks, seasonal gifts and more. Fun fact, the store is also connected to Parker Paper Company we popped into while waiting for a table at Press.
On our way, we’ll stop to notice the beautiful iron-and-wooden benches hand crafted by Andrew Preiss, my neighbor growing up, whose Durham studio has created metal sculptures that are the centerpieces of businesses and attractions all over town. These benches are another small and meaningful detail that adds to the ATC’s unmistakable vibe.
From any of the benches, we’ll gaze over another iconic American Tobacco landmark, a manmade water feature known as the “Bull River,” and suddenly I’m eight-years-old again, hopping across the rocks like Frogger to get to the other side. This playful detour reveals more of the campus’s hidden charms.
Just beyond the Bull River, we’ll find North Carolina Public Radio, another pillar of Durham’s cultural life. When we peek inside the windows, I catch a glimpse of 12-year-old-me, chatting with Frank Stasio on "The State of Things" about my involvement with local nonprofit Girls Rock NC.
Pro tip: If you visit in early fall or late spring, you might catch an evening performance on the lawn. For the past five years, Duke Arts has presented free concerts every Wednesday under the Lucky Strike Tower, a wonderful program celebrating Durham’s rich culture and history through music. Last year, the concerts honored the 50th anniversary of the Hayti Heritage Center in Durham.
In addition to all the attractions and striking industrial architecture, what I love most about American Tobacco is the blend of nostalgia and new memories, with each visit adding something new and unexpected. Even for those who didn’t grow up here, a walk through the campus offers a moment to appreciate how the old and the new can exist side by side.
Drinks & Dining
If we’re headed to The Bulls Game (starting in about an hour and a half, by the way) it's the perfect time to grab a few apps from Seraphine, an exploration of Louisiana family heritage through staple Creole and Cajun dishes with a modern twist. And yes, you’ve got to try the shrimp and grits. It is a must.
As we follow the host to our table inside the beautifully decorated restaurant, I catch a glimpse of my younger self eating dinner with my family and watching a Duke Basketball at the casual watering hole, Tyler’s Taproom, which used to occupy the space that is now a pristine restaurant recently recognized by the 2025 MICHELIN Guide American South. How things have changed!
If, however, we’re heading to a DPAC show (also starting in just an hour and a half!) NanaSteak is the move. It’s the perfect pre-show vibe: Upbeat and upscale with a fabulous, award-winning wine list you can choose from before the show.
For something a bit more casual, we’ll head to Boricua Soul to savor some African and Caribbean-inspired dishes with a nouveau Southern-Latino style.
Dining options truly abound these days in ATC – you’ve also got the option to stop at Ekhaya to enjoy imaginative Bantu tapas inspired by chef Zweli Williams’s upbringing in Zimbabwe.
After a delectable bite to tide us over before the game (or show!) It now feels like the perfect moment to stop for a drink. The best part? If we’re running late, not to worry! The ATC is part of the Bullpen Social District, meaning that patrons can get alcoholic drinks served to go from participating businesses and enjoy them as they walk through the campus. Stop at The Waiting Room, a cozy bar designed, as its name suggests, to be a stop before or after dinner or a show and order your cocktail to-go if you’re pressed for time.
If you’re up for more of a walk, cross over ATC to one of my new favorites, The Lenny Bar & Lounge on Mangum Street. This hot new bar is nestled beside the Van Allen apartment building, and feels tucked away, but the moment you step onto its 11th-floor rooftop, an incredible view of Durham unfolds.
From The Lenny, we can look down and catch the Bulls in action if it’s game day, or, in the off-season, you might spot a special event taking place on the field.
Last fall, for example, Virge Yoga closed out Move-A-Bull, Durham’s largest open-streets event, with an hour-long yoga class in the outfield. It was a quintessentially Durham moment, with the open-streets event buzzing around while folks found their stillness on the field. This is just one example of the many events that exemplify the DBAP’s commitment to local Durham initiatives despite being a world-famous team within a fan-favorite stadium.
And now we’re back on the rooftop of the Lenny. During the holidays, the rooftop transforms into a front-row seat for the FestiBull of Lights. Picture it: a cocktail in hand, twinkling lights reflecting off the igloos on the field, the soft glow dancing across the historic brick buildings. DBAP goes all out, with every corner decorated and each light display intentional…making you realize, once again, how the old and the new coexist, and our beloved city builds on its rich history to create new beginnings.
But the ATC isn’t just about lights, music and shows. If you wander a little off the main path, you’ll find spaces buzzing with a different kind of energy. Take American Underground, for example, a hub for co-working, collaboration and creativity born in the ATC. It’s a space where connections are made and inspiration thrives, proof that the ATC captures Durham's creative, collaborative spirit at its core.
The Past Meets the Present
Every corner of Durham has its own story, and each one is worth exploring in full. In our single walkthrough, we’ve only just scratched the surface of everything the American Tobacco Campus has to offer, an incredible mix of nightlife–artistry, athletics, small businesses, and foodie finds that are only just getting started. Fullsteam Brewing, Durham’s first homegrown brewery and a pioneer in North Carolina’s craft beer scene, Lutra Bakery, and East of Texas Barbecue are all set to open soon, adding even more flavor and Durham charm to the ATC.
Come experience the energy, charm, and unique vibes that make the ATC such a special part of the city. And maybe one day soon you’ll have your own loving memories to look back on at the ever-changing and growing Durham landmark.
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