Maddy Sweitzer-Lammé's Downtown Durham Food Tour
A native Durhamite and professional food tour operator maps out the perfect Durham day – walking between local cafes, lingering over brunch and landing at dinner spots locals swear by.
Growing up in Durham in the late nineties and early aughts, Maddy Sweitzer-Lammé has grown and changed alongside Durham over the last two decades.
As a child, I came to downtown Durham almost exclusively for swim practices at the YMCA – the downtown business district had not yet experienced the renaissance that has gone on over the last few decades. Now, my visits home to see family and friends are always punctuated by visits to new and old favorites. As a food writer and the owner-operator of a walking tour company in Philadelphia, where I now live, I make it my mission to stay up to date on what’s delicious, interesting and fun about my hometown.
With the arrival of the MICHELIN Guide American South, I’ve been inundated with requests for recommendations about what to do in my hometown. Durham is the rare city that can provide an entire day of great food, art, history and outdoor time — all without ever needing a car. I’ve built this itinerary around the idea of staying at a hotel downtown (rather than, say, my mom’s house) so that visitors can take advantage of bike paths and pedestrian-friendly streets.
This itinerary, in my personal and professional opinion, is designed to showcase some of Durham’s most beloved local spots from morning coffee to a late-night cocktail, with plenty of culture and fresh air woven in between. Whether you’re visiting for the first time or returning to discover new favorites, this day offers a delicious and distinctly Durham way to experience the Bull City.
9am: Coffee at Cocoa Cinnamon
420 W. Geer St.
Start your day at Cocoa Cinnamon’s original downtown location on the corner of Geer and Foster streets: a beloved, community-oriented coffee shop known for house-roasted beans and inventive specialty drinks (try their “Dr. Durham” latte or a rich sipping chocolate). The vibe is cozy and welcoming, with indoor and outdoor seating, free WiFi and plenty of space to settle in with a warm drink before the bustle of the day.
9:30am: A visit to the Durham Farmers’ Market
501 Foster St.
For me, any visit to Durham is centered around a morning at the Durham Farmers’ Market (open Saturday from April to November, 8 a.m. to 12 p.m. and November through March, 9 a.m. to 12 p.m.) to browse a vibrant array of fresh produce, baked goods, handmade items and local crafts. The market is a great way to get a pulse on everyday Durham – and I almost always run into old friends picking up produce. It’s a lively, welcoming spot that reflects Durham’s community spirit and showcases the area’s wealth of seasonal produce and locally made products.
10:30am: Brunch at Little Bull
301 E. Chapel Hill St.
Just a five-minute walk from the market, Little Bull offers a flavorful brunch inspired by “Pocho” cuisine, a style of cooking that blends chef Oscar Diaz’s immigrant family memories and modern creativity. The menu is full of bold, comforting dishes that mix familiar and unexpected flavors, like duck chilaquiles, gambas grits, oysters “Ranchofeller” and more.
12pm: Art at 21C Museum Hotel
111 Corcoran St.
After brunch, make your way to 21c for some art and architecture. The hotel doubles as a contemporary art museum, with rotating exhibitions showcasing local and national artists accessible free-of-charge 24 hours a day. It’s a smart way to dip into Durham’s creative side — accessible, walk-friendly and centrally located, so you don’t need a car to enjoy some visual culture.
1:30pm: Museum of Durham History
500 W. Main St.
The Museum of Durham History offers free admission and tells the multifaceted story of Durham — from its early days to today. The museum is committed to presenting history through personal stories, community memories and interactive exhibits that connect visitors with the social and cultural fabric of the city. Weekend visits during certain seasons may include complimentary cider and cookies — a charming bonus if you visit near the holidays.
2:30pm: Rose’s Noodles, Dumplings & Sweets
121 N. Gregson St.
Another personal favorite is Rose’s in the Brightleaf district for a quick and satisfying snack like a bowl of noodles, a plate of handmade dumplings or something sweet from the pastry counter. This spot is owned and operated by husband-and-wife duo Justin and Katie Meddis who oversee the savory and pastry kitchens respectively. Don’t miss the ice cream sandwiches, which come in creative flavors like miso gingersnap and burnt honey honeycomb.
3:30pm: American Tobacco Trail
Stretch your legs with a walk (or bike ride) along the American Tobacco Trail — a scenic, leafy greenway that spans 22 miles across Durham County beginning near the southern edge of the American Tobacco Campus, offers a peaceful escape from urban life. As a child, I resented my parents’ dedication to getting us outside and active on the weekends. Now, it’s one of my favorite ways to show off a different side of Durham (and build up an appetite for my next meal) If you’re interested in a little more Durham history, I recommend checking out this self-guided walking tour.
5pm: Brightleaf Square
905 W. Main St.
My parents sometimes reminisce about how downtown Durham still smelled a little like tobacco when they first moved here in the early 90s, a last vestige of the city’s history as a tobacco manufacturing center. Named for its history as a storage facility for bright leaf tobacco, Brightleaf Square is an excellent example of the thoughtful reuse of these buildings. Spend some time walking around before dinner, exploring the restaurants, bars, retail and offices. Check out locally owned shops like Indio, Mill and Meadow or The Borough for a gift to take home.
6pm: Nikos
905 W. Main St. Unit 21B
For dinner, head to Nikos, a cozy spot offering Mediterranean and Greek-style dishes that provide a satisfying end to your day of eating and exploring. Your meal will show you why Durham is the latest recipient of MICHELIN attention, including recognition for Nikos’ warm hospitality and thoughtfully prepared food. Try the meze platter of vegetable-based dishes or the Santorini lemon shrimp for lighter options if your day of eating has left you without a large appetite.
8:30pm: The Parlour
117 Market St.
Cap off your evening with a scoop (or two) at The Parlour, a beloved local ice cream shop known for inventive flavors and a friendly, low-key vibe. In the summer, locals gather to enjoy a sweet treat in the public square, CCB Plaza, in front of the shop, and in winter, they pack inside to enjoy the treats. Coconut-based flavors make a great vegan option (try the chocolate!) while affogatos are a cozy option for cooler weather. It’s the perfect dessert stop after dinner, especially if you’re strolling downtown and want a sweet finish to the night.
9:30pm: Kingfisher
321 E Chapel Hill St.
If you’re up for one last experience before calling it a night, James Beard-nominated Kingfisher offers cocktails made from local ingredients, served in handmade ceramic glassware from owner Michelle Vanderwalker. For something a little more casual, head upstairs to Queeny’s where locals hang out until 2 a.m., drinking and noshing on sheet pan nachos or chicken crispers. It’s a quintessential way to unwind after a full-day stroll through Durham’s food, history and culture.
Your Bull City foodie tour is now complete, but your journey through Durham's culinary scene is only just beginning. Create your own itinerary for next time using the Discover Durham app. Create your own itinerary for a day or a whole weekend full of Durhams essential eateries and award winning restaurants and chefs.
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