What Chef Matt Kelly Loves about Durham
We sat down with Chef Matt Kelly to talk about why Durham continues to call him back again and again, what makes the Bull City's culinary scene so important and what he has to say about each of his restaurants.
After years sharpening his chops in kitchens around and beyond North Carolina, Kelly landed in the Bull City and found something he hadn’t quite expected: a community that embraces bold ideas, old traditions and the everyday pleasure of a well-made meal.
In a sense, his story echoes those of Durham’s other culinary voices — those who arrived with big dreams but stayed for the food, the people, the possibilities. Kelly’s restaurants aren’t just about technique or trend—they’re about connection, about listening to what the city wants and surprising it with what it didn’t know it needed. Here are Kelly’s reflections on Durham’s character, the ingredients he won’t compromise on and where he sees his role in steering the city’s evolving palate.
Why did you decide to build your career in Durham?
Matt Kelly: There were chefs here, people like Ben Barker at Magnolia Grill, who were doing really cool stuff, really cooking amazing stuff. I was so inspired by that. My first big gig was working for Giorgios Bakatsias at Vin Rouge.
How did you end up in Durham?
My family moved here in the 80s, and I always came back - after high school, after college, after culinary school. I started working as a dishwasher in college and I thought it was the coolest job - as much free iced tea and soda as I wanted and free food? I was broke and like 20 years old, so I thought that was pretty amazing.
What’s your most visceral food memory?
I have this memory of my grandmother making me tomato soup from a can, but she was adding salt and using a pepper mill. I had never seen a pepper mill, and she showed me what it was and what pepper was. She added butter and all this stuff and when I tasted it, I was like ‘Oh, this is what it means to make something delicious.”
What’s different about dining in Durham versus other cities?
I think people are curious here, they’re excited to try new things. It’s a city where people are educated, and they travel. I think people are excited when they can get those experiences here in their own home.
How would you describe each of your restaurants?
At all of our places we use the best product we can get our hands on. There’s so much tradition and great ingredients here, which makes it easy.
Vin Rouge
Vin Rouge is a French bistro - people always say it’s fine dining, but it’s really not. It’s boisterous and fun and it is what it is. We’re not trying to evolve, we’re trying to be consistent there with what we do well. This was my first restaurant, and the chef there is Steven McRae.
Mateo Bar de Tapas
I became obsessed with Spanish food, which people sometimes think is Mexican food, but we’re talking about, like Madrid and Barcelona. We opened in 2012 and have, like, 50 things on the menu, which is insane, but we say it’s Spanish heart with a Southern soul. Abby Bangs is the chef at Mateo and she is constantly pushing the limits.
Mothers & Sons
Mothers & Sons is a classic Italian trattoria, and we opened in 2017. The chef, Josh DeCarolis, has spent some time in Bologna and he takes those techniques and uses local produce to make the best food possible.
Nanas
I’m still the chef at Nanas - I’ve missed like three services since I opened it back up. I bought it in 2022 from the original owner, and we opened in December of 2023. We do elegant Southern food, but we try to be loyal to what Nana’s was in its original form.
What are you most proud of about your career?
I’m proud that there’s a lineage - you know, I worked for these big chefs when I was coming up, and now I can look at places like Ideal’s and say yeah, those guys used to work for me, for example. I’m proud of how we’ve all been catalysts for better food in Durham, and in the Triangle.
What kind of recognition does the MICHELIN Guide bring to Durham?
I think people should cook for themselves, to pay their bills and cook what they want to cook, but it’s inevitable that MICHELIN will change the city.
Being included in the MICHELIN Guide American South is a great opportunity to represent our community and to highlight the incredible work that our team is doing at Nanas. We take pride in being a part of Durham's incredible community of restaurants.
As a restaurant that focuses on continued storytelling and evolution through food, the tides are always turning, the seasons are always changing and so are parts of our menu. At Nanas, we're always dreaming of ways to push ourselves and our food to deliver something really special to every guest. Now and then we consider the MICHELIN recommendation in conversations among the team, but our focus is on the food, our community and maintaining our standards of hospitality.
Where do you like to eat in Durham on your days off?
I love Ideal’s for sandwiches and Pizzeria Toro for pizza. I love places that are consistent and simple, Jean's by the Sea, Redstart and Gocciolina. I love Rose’s - I think it’s such a human, incredible place and that’s really what I seek out when I’m eating out. I want to feel connected to the people behind the thing that I’m eating.
Any recommendations for things to do in Durham between meals?
The Museum of Life and Science is a banger, we go there a lot. I always tell people to walk around the American Tobacco Campus. I have kids now, so my life is a little different, but there’s so much for us to do here. I also always say, Durham is right in the middle, so it’s kind of the perfect place to explore the whole Triangle.
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