The Best Noodles in Durham

As a food writer I have a few culinary obsessions in my life–cast iron pans, cooking over an open fire, cheese in all its glorious forms, but if there were to exist a pyramid of my food loves then sitting right there up at the top would likely be noodles. Yes, noodles. Noodles in all their glorious forms. Noodles in sauce, stir-fried noodles, noodle soups. Thin noodles, long flat noodles, big chonky wheat noodles and demure, delicate rice noodles. Noodles are one of civilizations greatest culinary inventions and perhaps the best vehicle for an endless array of flavors and preparations that exists today across cultures. Luckily for me (and for you, if you’re reading this!), Durham has an embarrassment of noodle riches to keep me happily slurping all year long.

Durham’s Best Italian Pasta Dishes

My first introduction to noodles, like probably most Americans, was through Italian-American classics like spaghetti and meatballs and fettuccine alfredo. While I still love both, my Italian noodle tastes have matured a bit. I like generous amounts of sauce, funky flavors, and I’m willing to push the boundaries a bit; but there are still times when I crave some of that childhood comfort. Here are some of my favorites:

• Mother & Sons: Go for date night, a business dinner, or to grab a bite before a DPAC show. Order the Bucatini al-Amatriciana or Squid Ink Tonarelli.
• Gocciolina: Go for family dinner, a first date, or just because you’re craving pasta. Order the Spaghetti Carbonara, trust me.
• Vici Ristobar: Go for lunch or to refuel after shopping, bring the kids or just bring yourself, but for sure order the Spaghetti and Meatballs.

Durham’s Best Asian Noodles

As my tastes and palate matured, I discovered Asian noodles. If there was a biopic of my culinary life that part would feature me slurping down a bowl of ramen or plate of stir-fried noodles while the song, “A Whole New World,” from Disney’s Aladdin plays in the background. Noodles can be found in culinary traditions around the globe, but they were both invented (according to most historians) AND perfected (according to me) in Asia.

Slurp-Worthy Bowls of Ramen

Let’s start with ramen. Entire books have been written and television shows produced about ramen, and deservedly so. As an avowed noodle evangelist asking me to pick my favorite noodle dish is akin to asking me to make a Rosemary’s Baby-style choice, but if pressed I’d probably end up saying ramen. Throughout the Triangle we have amazing ramen options, including right here in Durham. Now, I want to preface this by saying that ramen choices evoke as much emotion as asking someone whether or not pineapple belongs on pizza, so with the caveat that my favorites might not be yours, here are some of my ramen go-tos:

• Rose’s Noodles, Dumplings, and Sweets: I’d advise anyone looking for a great bowl of noodles to start here. This buzzy, small space has evolved over the years and is now firmly entrenched as one of the best ramen joints in town. Chef and co-owner Justin Meddis not only makes the noodles from scratch, but his broth is heavenly and the options, although limited, rotate frequently enough that you can experience a wide variety of ramens throughout the year.
• Kiichi Ramen: A newer addition the Bull City’s dining scene on 9th Street with a great selection of typical ramen varieties like miso, tonkotsu and shoyu. I first went to Kiichi last winter when I felt a cold coming on and I’m not saying that their tonkotsu cured me, but the rich broth paired with a few glasses of hot green tea and the kind, thoughtful service definitely helped.
• Dashi: Another downtown ramen staple, and I prefer to eat upstairs in the Izakaya. This is the spot I hit if I have folks visiting town and I’m taking them on a little walk-and-eat tour of downtown Durham. Order a couple bowls of ramen and some grilled skewers for the table and chase it all with some incredible Japanese whiskey. Perfect late-night meal if you ask me!
• Urban Noodle: If I’m craving ramen but don’t want to leave the house, I’ll order a bowl of Chicken Curry Ramen for delivery. They have a ton of options and I’ve yet to find one I don’t enjoy.
• Fonda Lupita: Lastly, If I’ve spent a bit too much time at one of Durham’s amazing cocktail bars, you can find me the next day hunched over a steaming hot bowl of Birria Ramen. I swear, it’s pure magic.

Pho, Noodle Soups and Thai Favorites

There are more to noodle soups than just ramen, however. Countries and cuisines across the world have a variety of versions, each of which serve their own purposes and have a special place in my heart.

• Urban Noodle: My takeout go-to has a variety of hand-pulled noodle soups, but my favorite is their Traditional Beef Noodle Soup with beef, cilantro, leek, radish and chili oil.
• Bua Thai: If I’m under the weather, I turn to the chicken noodle soup. It’s a combination of childhood familiarity with southeast Asian sophistication.
• Koki: This Puerto Rican spot has a superb chicken noodle soup that reminds of my time spent in South America and is absolutely perfect on a chilly, gray day.
• Noodle 501: It lives up to its name with a wide variety of noodle soups. Two favorites of mine are the Coconut Noodle Soup (coconuty broth with a choice of chicken, veggies, or tofu, served with cabbage, carrots and jammy eggs) and the Yen Ta Fo, which comes with flat rice noodles and a symphony of roasted pork, calamari, shrimp, fish balls, fried tofu and bok choy in a pink-tinted soybean broth.
• Banh’s Cuisine: A Ninth Street legend serving Vietnamese and Chinese staples, will often have a pho or other noodle soup on special. The Hu Tieu is a rice noodle soup that comes with pork, shrimp, celery, and ground peanuts. Sometimes they also have Bun Ga, a coastal Vietnamese spicy soup with lemongrass and chicken. Vegetarians should look for their Pho Choy, with tofu, bok choy, and rice noodles.
• Thaiangle: The Khao Soi is superb and probably my favorite version of the dish in the area. A warming, curried broth that comes with both cooked and fried egg noodles, this northern Thai specialty is a noodle dish that I could easily eat every single day.

Brothless Noodles

If a brothless noodle is more what you’re in the mood for, Durham has you covered as well. They can come in a variety of styles, from cold-steamed noodles to stir-fried, but all have their place in the canon of delicious noodle dishes.

• Sake Bomb: One of my favorites is the Bun Thit Nuong, a Vietnamese rice noodle dish with barbecued pork. I will often order this for takeout, eat half for dinner and take the rest for lunch. It’s delicious cold, but just a few seconds in the microwave will have your coworkers sniffing around and wondering what deliciousness you’ve brought into the office.
• Sister Liu’s Kitchen: The rice noodles are fantastic. Although they’re more well known for their dumplings and Chinese-style burgers, their noodles come with a variety of toppings like Pork Sauce (ground pork in a savory sauce), Spicy Beef Mushroom, and Vegetables with Peanuts.
• Juju: The brothless Garlic Ramen Noodles are a staple and always worth ordering. Here’s my usual move—sit at the bar, get a glass of crisp white wine along with an order of dumplings and the noodles. Perfect lunch.
• Thaiangle: Pad Thai is a perennial favorite, and this is a great version. The stir-fried rice noodles are served with ground sweet radish and peanuts, bean sprouts, garlic, scallions, and your choice of protein.
• Asian Kitchen: I could create a whole noodle feast here, where they have some of my all-time favorites including Dan Dan Noodles, Chongqing Pulled Noodles, and Tomato and Egg Shaved Noodles. Actually, that would be a great dinner party idea, so if you do that please invite me and we’ll order all the noodles.
• Nan Xiang Express: The Shredded Beef and Pepper Noodles are a go-to lunch order for me and can come with or without broth. If it’s hot out I go brothless, but if it’s even the slightest bit chilly or overcast I’ll get the broth and bring them back to my office for some happy afternoon slurping.
• M Kokko: Lastly, the vegan Biang Biang Noodles are just what I need when I’m feeling indulgent but want something a bit lighter. They have a fantastic ramen as well, but the Biang Biang have always stood out to me.

Honestly, the list of places in Durham with great noodles could stretch on like, well, a noodle. You could easily eat a different noodle dish every day of the week for a month and still not scratch the surface of what the Bull City has to offer. Whether you want a refreshing cold noodle dish in the middle of the summer or a piping hot bowl of brothy noodles to warm you up in the winter, you’ll find it here, trust me. Happy slurping!