48 Hours Exploring Durham’s Black-Owned Gems
Want to explore Durham's Black-owned businesses but only have two days? Our guide has you covered.
Durham. Bull City. DUR.HAM. However you reference the city, you must put some respect on its name. Dipped in a historical baptism that includes lauded firsts such as Black Wall Street and North Carolina Central University in the Hayti District, the soul of the South beats through Durham. the city's heritage beams with Black history. Parrish Street’s Black Wall Street still salutes the pioneers who set the standard for creating and generating wealth, modeled in black communities nationwide.
Durham is home to the second oldest minority-owned bank in the United States—Mechanics and Farmers (M&F Bank)—and North Carolina Mutual Insurance Company, once known as one of the world's most prominent African American businesses. The same entrepreneurial spirit is alive today through Black-owned businesses and establishments—there’s no surprise they thrive on the city's rich soil. Supporting and investing in Black-owned businesses is part of Durham’s DNA.
From the moment visitors arrive, they are cared for by Durhamites (Durham natives and those who claim the city as their new home) as they explore spaces and places that embody the city’s contemporary swagger and its renowned soul. The birthplace of legends like the First Lady of Gospel Shirley Caesar, the late fashion icon and Vogue editor-at-large André Leon Talley and heralded football star and painter Ernie Barnes, the City of Medicine is home to Grammy award-winning jazz greats Branford Marsalis and Nnenna Freelon. Durham’s authentic, unpretentious signature swag is real.
Journey to a place filled with a flavorful mix of Southern charm and impressive attractions—a destination that will leave you exhausted and refreshed all at once. Durham sets the stage for creating a travel itinerary for those who aren’t afraid to explore, lean in and lean back. So, pace yourself and explore with this curated two-day experience showcasing the best of Durham’s Black cultural attractions, businesses and eateries.
Top Tier Accommodations: Check In
Book a stay at Morehead Manor Bed and Breakfast, owned by Monica and Daniel Edwards. This Colonial-style residence prides itself on being one of only a handful of Black-owned and operated bed and breakfasts in the country. The charming one-suite, four-bedroom inn is more than meets the eye and is situated adjacent to downtown Durham in the West End neighborhood. Whether it's a staycation, romantic getaway or well-needed woosah time with girlfriends, it's the ideal spot. Choose from the amenities menu which includes relaxing spa treatments; all stays include a full breakfast.
Day One:
9 a.m. - Brunch It Up
Set it off with breakfast or brunch at owner and executive chef Zuri Hester’s Nzinga’s Kitchen in the historic Hayti District or Sidney Coves' True Flavors Diner in South Durham. The mouthwatering menus that range from the breakfast croissant sandwiches at Nzinga’s to peach butter French toast and cheesy skillet potatoes at True Flavors, along with generously sized portions at both eateries, will have you scheduling your return visit.
11:30 a.m. – HBCU Excellence
On the sloping hills and verdant green of North Carolina Central University in the Hayti community, seeds were planted in 1910 by pharmacist, businessman and educator Dr. James E. Shepard to establish the historically Black university that now boasts a student population of 8,000 students. It is home to rich cultural assets, including the newly renovated NCCU Museum of Art and an award-winning jazz studies program.
NCCU annually hosts the “Ultimate Homecoming Experience,” a time each fall when thousands of alumni and friends return home for a week filled with concerts, a step show, football game, tailgating and other activities. Pick up your NCCU gear at Eagleland, a local licensed NCCU retailer blocks away from the university.
Take note: Visit in April and catch the annual NCCU Jazz Festival featuring some of the greatest prominent jazz artists, composers and musicians; several events are free.
1 p.m. - Delicious Delicacies
A Durham staple whose name doesn’t tell the whole story is Chicken Hut on Fayetteville Street. Not only does the over 60-year-old, family-owned establishment cook up arguably some of the best fried chicken in town, but its menu also boasts weekly specials like fried fish, meatloaf and neck bones.
3 p.m. - Shop Small. Buy Black. Spend Green.
Small businesses thrive throughout Durham, from a local candle company and bookstore to custom men’s wear brands and an African clothing and accessories store.
Based in Durham but distributed widely online, Bright Black. is a locally owned candle and scent brand founded by Tiffany Griffin and Dariel Heron.
Their handcrafted scents hit the perfect notes with powerful messages that leave their impact, like Resist, the Diaspora Collection, the Genres Collection honoring Black musicians and the infamous Durham candle with hints of tobacco and cotton. Shop the collections and join a scentmaking workshop or community event at the Lakewood District studio.
Get a quick lesson in sartorial science and haberdashery at Jada’s Men’s Accessories, a specialty men's shop on Durham-Chapel Hill Blvd., (a few doors down from Saltbox Seafood Joint) that offers unique combinations that complement men’s suits—from cufflinks and ties to pocket squares—along with other items. Husband-and-wife team James and Wendy Abrams' passion for making their customers stand out has made fans and models out of local newscasters, athletes and business executives.
6 p.m. - It's Fish Friday
Saltbox Seafood Joint, created by Best Chef-Southeast by the James Beard Foundation, Chef Ricky Moore fries and blackens the freshest local catch from coastal North Carolina. The famed casual spot with outdoor seating notes "Menu Changes Daily," so expect a great-tasting new seafood treat each visit.
Diasporic Deliciousness: Durham serves up a host of culinary choices, and the diversity of the African diaspora is alive and flourishing in the Bull City, thanks to one Brightleaf-area restaurant whose dishes are native to the continent of Africa. Fasil Tesfaye and Zewditu Zewdie created Goorsha's, which features Ethiopian cuisine favorites like sambusas, tibs and wot paired with the handcrafted cocktail of your choice.
9:30 p.m. - Have a Night Out
If you're looking to hit the dance floor or watch a game, head to The Pickleback 2 for DJs, an indoor/outdoor dance floor, karaoke nights, sports on tv and some of the best wings in town.
Day Two
9 a.m. - Rise and Shine
See and hear up-close Durham points of interest that highlight the city’s rich African American history. Start your morning with a stop at Black-owned Narrative Coffee to get caffeinated before your big day. Fully fueled up, you're now ready for Aya Shabu’s Whistle Stop Tours. Aya takes visitors to areas of historical significance throughout the city’s Hayti District and Black Wall Street and West End areas and brings the stories and figures from history to life through dance and performances.
11 a.m. - Black Business Past and Present
Make your way to Parrish Street to stroll the storefronts of Durham's historic Black Wall Street. In the early 1900s, Durham's Black community built an economic hub here, the lasting impact of which is still felt today. Read the historic markers and check out Black wall Street Gardens at the corner of West Parrish and North Mangum streets.
After you've gotten your fill of history, step into the present with a visit to Exotique on Main Street. A visit to this boutique is like shopping at a local artisan market curated by owners Yemi and Lola Olufolabi. The shop’s products hail from African countries—from handbags and dresses to sculptures, soaps and crafts—and beautifully showcase the talent of craftspersons whose work is equally delicate and detailed.
12 p.m. - Craveable Classics
Waffles fluff up differently at the flagship location of Dame's Chicken & Waffles on Driver Street in East Durham. Home to one of three locations in the Triangle and Triad, chef and owner Damian Moore's waffles, crispy fried chicken and flavorful homemade smears satisfy their customers, making them ‘almost famous,’ as the merch says.
1 p.m. - History Lives
Learn about Durham's earliest history with a tour at the Historic Stagville State Historic Site. The site has done a beautiful job of centering the lives and experiences of the enslaved people who lived there, and offers genealogy research for ancestors. You can read a firsthand account of a visit on our blog written by journalist Ronny Maye.
A trip to the Pauli Murray Center is also a must for any Durham History check list. Rev. Dr. Pauli Murray was a Durham activist who devoted her life to human rights. Residing in the childhood home of the Durham civil rights icon, the Pauli Murray Center is committed to educating the public on the fight for human rights, both past and present.
If you'd like to stay downtown, stop by the Museum of Durham History for interactive exhibits about Durham's history.
4 p.m. - Sweet Spots
Durham isn’t just known for its restaurants; those who want to appease their sweet tooth travel for hours for a taste of the good life served up by three Durham bakers. Your day will be made even sweeter with the signature red velvet cake and various cupcake varieties at Keijuane Hester’s Favor Desserts, an endless assortment of melt-in-your-mouth made-from-scratch cookies from Ashleigh Ratchford at Ashleigh Bakes, available at retailers around Durham and at her new downtown storefront, or a layered delight nicknamed Black Wall Street or other one-of-a-kind bakery creations from Lydia Ricks of Bull City Bake Shop.
6 p.m. - Gastronomic Goodness
Choosing between the brunch, lunch and dinner menus at Lula & Sadie’s, a newer kid on the restaurant block in the Lakewood neighborhood, isn’t easy. Whatever you choose, you’ll find a flavor flex that makes Chef Harry S. Monds’ years of experience apparent. The architectural landmark the restaurant sits in, a former baking company, is part of the appeal. The grownup dishes, including the smoked duck gumbo and BBQ shrimp and grits, are the real winners.
8 p.m. - Sip and Socialize
Wrap up the weekend on a high note with a visit to Primrose Bar & Lounge. This cocktail bar is the perfect setting to sip a beverage with a friend and discuss everything you learned and enjoyed over the weekend. Relax in their comfortable seats in an intimate corner and enjoy the cozy atmosphere. If you stick around until 10, the real party will begin. Every Saturday night, Primrose brings in a DJ for guests to dance the night away.
Planning Your Return to the Bull City?
Support small farmers and other black businesses at Black Farmers Market, held bimonthly at Durham Technical Community College annually from April through October. From crafts to collards, the market provides locals and others a direct way to support local produce and other merchants. Find other annual events celebrating Black history and culture to plan your trip around.
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